The Origins of Kawa Fugu in Hida
In 1982, fish farming began in the Shimokotori Dam reservoir in the former Kawai Village, now part of Kawai Town in Hida City. The initiative was inspired when a local aquaculture operator sampled American catfish in Tokyo and was impressed by its flavor.
The fish were raised in the reservoir’s clean water, which helped eliminate the muddy odor sometimes associated with catfish. Local inns and restaurants began serving them in a variety of preparations, including live-style sashimi, deep-fried fish, and kabayaki—fish grilled with a savory, sweet soy-based glaze.
White Flesh and a Pleasant, Firm Texture
Kawa fugu has white flesh with a pleasantly firm texture and a mild, refined flavor. These qualities helped establish it as a distinctive local specialty known as Hida’s kawa fugu cuisine.
Sashimi is particularly popular. The fish is sliced very thinly, much like traditional pufferfish sashimi, creating a similar delicate texture. This resemblance is the reason the fish became known locally as “kawa fugu.”
A Unique Taste of Hida’s Mountain Food Culture
For visitors exploring Hida and the surrounding areas of Takayama and Shirakawa-go, kawa fugu offers an opportunity to discover an unusual regional dish shaped by local aquaculture and clean mountain water. Whether enjoyed as thinly sliced sashimi, crispy fried fish, or richly glazed kabayaki, it provides a memorable taste of Hida’s culinary traditions.