History of Nakatsugawa-juku
Nakatsugawa-juku also prospered as a gateway to the Kiso Road, the mountainous section of the Nakasendo. The historic streets extended from the Kyoto side in the west toward Edo in the east.
From 1663 onward, the town’s length was recorded as approximately 10 chō and 7 ken, traditional Japanese units of measurement. The road was about three to four ken wide. These measurements give an indication of the scale and layout of the post town during the Edo period.
The area was under the jurisdiction of the Yamamura Jinbei family, senior retainers of the Owari Domain who also served as officials overseeing the Kiso region and the Fukushima checkpoint. Nakatsugawa was also home to a local magistrate’s office, reflecting its importance in regional administration.
Highlights of Nakatsugawa-juku
Traditional Streets and Udatsu Firewalls
The Honmachi district is particularly well known for preserving the historic character of the old post town. Its traditional buildings and streets offer a sense of the commercial activity that once made Nakatsugawa an important stop along the Nakasendo.
The udatsu walls are among the area’s most distinctive architectural features. Because constructing them required considerable expense, they were generally found on the homes of wealthier families. In addition to helping prevent fires from spreading between buildings, they demonstrated the owner’s prosperity and status.
The Japanese expression udatsu ga agaranai, meaning that someone is unable to improve their circumstances or achieve success, is commonly associated with these structures. The phrase is thought to reflect the social and economic aspirations symbolized by the raised walls.
Masugata: The Right-Angled Street Layout
Another notable feature is the masugata, a section of road that bends sharply at right angles. Such layouts were used in historic Japanese castle towns and post stations, potentially serving defensive purposes by slowing the movement of approaching forces. They may also have helped control the flow of travelers.
Walking through these bends offers a glimpse of how the old post town was designed and organized. Together with the traditional houses and udatsu walls, the street layout preserves the distinctive atmosphere of Japan’s historic highway settlements.
Step Back into Japan’s Edo-Period Past
Nakatsugawa-juku is an appealing destination for travelers interested in traditional Japanese architecture and the history of the Nakasendo. Its preserved streets, merchant houses, and historic road layout reveal how this once-prosperous post town served travelers and supported commerce during the Edo period.
A leisurely walk through Honmachi provides an opportunity to appreciate the town’s architectural details and imagine the bustle of merchants, travelers, and feudal processions that once passed along this important route between Kyoto and Edo.